Flanders. You know Ghent, Brugge and perhaps Ostend – at least by name. On my most recent trip to the north-west of Belgium, I made another interesting discovery: Right “behind” the world-famous cultural city of Brugge, the Zwin region on the Belgian North Sea coast welcomes you to an enchanting natural landscape, including the two small towns of Damme and Knokke-Heist.
The coastal region in Flanders near the Belgian-Dutch border is well worth a visit at the start of summer: blooming nature and gardens about two hundred metres from the beach.
Knokke: “Quiet luxury”. And a place called Surfer’s Paradise!
In Knokke-Heist, we are welcomed by the young tourism manager Liesbet, who coined the term “quiet luxury” for us – and explains: “Knokke is the only town in Belgium where golf carts are officially allowed on the roads. We cherish luxury, but the quiet, unagitated kind. The natural jewel of the Zwin Natuurpark is a must-see!”
Well, what can I say, other than that she is totally right. Knokke really is this lovely little seaside town that shows us luxury from its green, nature-loving side: our accommodation at Hotel St Pol with lots of flowers and a large stork graffiti on the outside. The many green footpaths and cycle paths near the beach and in the town. The mighty coastal panorama with sweeping sandy beaches. Quiet luxury, in other words.
What’s more, when we spoke to Frank from Surfer’s Paradise in Knokke, we were talking to a real veteran of the Belgian surfing community. Frank grew up here and has been drawn to the water all his life – so much so that he has “surfed all over the world and brought my knowledge, passion and expertise back here,” he tells us over a drink on the sun terrace.
Our arrival in Knokke-Heist: stork graffiti at our delightful accommodation, Hotel St Pol, just a few minutes’ walk from the beach.
The rooms of the three-star-hotel are really comfortable …
… and only a few minutes’ walk away, you can have a lovely dinner at the Hotel Pavillon du Zoute.
Knokke shows you the way: On my morning walk from the hotel to the beach …
… I find myself wrapped up in the beauty of the place, especially as an Austrian foreign to these (wide open) shores.
At the so-called “Surfer’s Paradise” …
… we dive into the global surfing community …
… thank you so much, dear Frank, for sharing your passion with us! If we had had more time, I would have been ready to go surfing again, after I last tried it many years ago in Portugal …!
Visiting the Zwin Natuur Park in Knokke-Heist, an international haven for migratory birds of all kinds.
Mieke van den Sande is what you would call a force of nature. We estimate her to be at least 70, maybe even older – but she has an energy that would put many younger people to shame.
Her knowledge and drive to tell us everything, literally really everything, about Zwin Natuur Park, the Wadden Sea landscape, the bird sanctuary and the animals that live here is unrivalled. In the few hours we spend with her, I am totally rapt, listening to all her fascinating stories about the return of the storks, the international “airport” for long-haul feathered guests and the vibrancy of the Wadden Sea at our feet.
Check this out.
Visiting the nature park centre of the Zwin Natuur Park …
… we start our experience with a “true” Belgian lunch at the local nature park restaurant …
… before taking to the beautiful storks and their young …
… as well as these little frogs, apparently ubiquitous, but hard to spot for the untrained eye. Thank God for Mieke!
She really knows the answer to everything. And if she doesn’t, it doesn’t tamper her spirits one bit.
To be travelling with such a passionate and committed ranger in this nature reserve at the border to the Netherlands is a true gift – and highly recommended for your experience of this area.
Packrafting in Damme. What’s with this new sport?
Do you know packrafting? If not, then let me tell you. If you do, you might be interested to know where this relatively new trend sport can be practised in Belgium.
Mathias from Packrafting.be has been a passionate packrafter for many years and explains: “Basically, it’s quite simple. You take a large rucksack, pack a folded boat and paddling gear in it, hike to a waterhole and paddle away!” Say what?! Janett and I look at each other: Exactly how do we get from the pre-packed rucksack to a boat on the water? And what technique did we use to inflate the boat again ..?
Here’s my cheerful, step-by-step guide for packrafting newbies:
Book a packrafting experience or, for the more advanced, hire a packraft from specialised companies such as Fagus Outdoor / Packrafting.be in Belgium.
Inflate the packraft with a special air bag technique and then finish with your mouth (kiss me Kate … Janett!) Well done!
Before we know it, we’re already on the water, here on the Damme canal …
… and after deflating the packraft and stowing it back in our rucksacks, it’s time to unpack our healthy packed lunch from Maisterplan …
… before walking what we paddled back on dry land, to Damme, handing our packrafts back to Mathias – done! What a nice start to my packrafting adventures here in Flanders!
Exploring the pretty little town of Damme in the north-west of Flanders.
The starting point and destination of our packrafting trip is the pretty little town of Damme, which is located just a few kilometres from Bruges in the middle of a natural landscape typical of north-west Flanders.
We climb the old church tower, enjoy a sensational 360° view over the region, learn about the history and culture of the town and wonder whether “Claude really was van Damme”, i.e. from Damme?! 😀
Welcome to Damme! And one of its typical canals …
… a cute little town that welcomes us with both past and present firmly intertwined.
Yes, really, I do like it here!
It might look tall, but you will be able to climb this tower …
… trust me. The views are simply wonderful!
Maisterplan: Glamping destination, foodie hotspot and farm holiday experience all in one.
Last but not least, I would like to tell you about a special travel experience, a family story that radiates far beyond the boundaries of the so-called Maisterplan farm.
Janne and Maxime, who run Janne’s family farm as a modern organic farm with unusual accommodation options, excellent cuisine and numerous experiences, now attract guests from far beyond the borders of Flanders and Belgium.
While we wait for the truly excellent dinner that Maxime seems to conjure up out of nowhere, Janne entertains us without effort, this despite the fact that both have a baby and a toddler to care for. Where does this woman get her energy from? I wonder, and look at her in awe!
Two hours later, the answer is somewhat clearer to me: Janne and Maxime draw their strength from nature, the location of the farm, the way they treat the animals and people here, and indeed from their own decision to continue running the farm as opposed to leading a career-city-people-life. The couple, delightful hosts both of them, have created something that has become rare in the 21st century: a place that brings together time and nature with a hint of luxury, all while remaining honest and authentic. Respect, really – for me, Maisterplan is a true must-see and experience in Flanders!
Welcome to Maisterplan near Damme and Bruges in Belgium …
… here, we get to know the likeable chef & farmer by choice, Maxime …
… while Janne takes us out onto the farm fields, tasting fresh strawberries …
… the Maisterplan sheep are just too cute …
… and the fresh, succulent and simply delicious dinner with organic ingredients from the farm leaves nothing to be desired. I mean, just look at us!
Thank you so much for welcoming us, dear Janne, dear Maxime – next time, I’ll bring the kids and then we can also sleep here with you.
Thank you so much, wonderful Flanders, for all these special travel experiences here in the early summer!
Check out even more travel photos from our discoveries of north West Flanders in the Flickr photo gallery.
I was also a guest in Flanders almost a year ago. Read more about my Flanders Bike & Hike trip in the northeast of Belgium here.
Disclaimer: I have been invited by VisitFlanders on this trip to Flanders. All opinions are my own.